Squalane

The natural emollient of the skin - a stable, hydrogenated form of squalene - a natural component of skin sebum. A lightweight emollient that nourishes without clogging pores.

Lipid
ONE Library - Scientific Articles
ONE Library - Scientific Articles

Squalane is a rare case in skincare: an ingredient the skin already knows. The body produces its own version of the substance, which explains why almost everyone tolerates it so well.

Squalene and Squalane: One Letter Apart

Squalene, with an "e", is a substance skin produces naturally as part of its sebum. Its problem is that it oxidises quickly on contact with air, which makes it unsuitable for a cosmetic product.

Squalane, with an "a", is the hydrogenated version. Hydrogenation makes it stable and resistant to oxidation without changing how it feels on skin. Which is why products always contain the second form.

Where it comes from today

Historically squalane was obtained from shark liver. Today the overwhelming majority in cosmetics is plant-derived, most often from olive or sugarcane. If that matters to you, look for a plant-origin note on the packaging.

How It Works

Squalane is an emollient: it softens the surface and fills the microscopic spaces between cells in the upper layer. The result is skin that feels smoother and loses less water through the barrier.

Unlike heavier oils, squalane feels light and absorbs quickly without leaving a greasy film. That is why it appears so often in products for oily skin, where most oils would be far too heavy.

Why It Is So Well Tolerated

Squalane is odourless, contains none of the components that commonly irritate, and is structurally close to something skin already makes. So it is frequently recommended for sensitive skin and considered low-risk even on reactive skin.

It is also considered non-comedogenic for most people, though on congestion-prone skin no oil is entirely risk-free. A patch test remains the sensible precaution.

Who It Suits

Every skin type. On dry skin it acts as a softening layer, on oily skin it is light enough not to weigh anything down, and on sensitive skin it is among the safest choices. It is also used on hair to reduce the look of frizz at the ends, and on cuticles.

How to Use It

A few drops on slightly damp skin, after your serum and either before or instead of a cream, depending on how rich you need the care to be. It can also be mixed into a plain cream if the texture feels insufficient in winter.

As a buffer with actives

Squalane is also useful when introducing retinol. A layer before or after the active softens the adjustment period without cancelling out its effect. It combines without restriction with niacinamide, acids and vitamin C.

What to Expect

Softer, more comfortable skin from the first few applications. Squalane does not target wrinkles, pigmentation or blemishes and will not change your skin tone. Its job is supportive, and it does that reliably.

How to Read the Label

On an ingredient list squalane appears simply as squalane. If you see squalene with an "e", the product contains the unstable form and is more likely to go rancid. Wording like "100% squalane" means there is nothing in the bottle but the ingredient itself.

Pure squalane is colourless, odourless and liquid at room temperature without thickening. If a product has a distinct smell, that comes from something else in the formula, not from the squalane.

How long it keeps

Because it resists oxidation, squalane keeps far longer than plant oils. That also makes it convenient for formulators, since it does not demand large amounts of antioxidant in the formula.

Common Misunderstandings

The first is that squalane hydrates. It does not, because it contains no water. It holds existing moisture in and softens the surface, but if skin is dehydrated it needs a hydrating product first, with squalane on top.

The second is that it replaces a cream. On dry skin in winter, squalane alone is rarely enough: it lacks the humectants and heavier occlusives that hold water in for longer.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

Didn't find your answer?
Contact us
01What is the difference between squalene and squalane?

Squalene (C₃₀H₅₀) is an unsaturated lipid with six double bonds that is naturally present in human sebum but is chemically unstable and prone to rapid oxidation. Squalane (C₃₀H₆₂) is its hydrogenated, saturated form - stable, resistant to oxidation, and with a longer shelf life. Both possess identical moisturizing properties, but squalane is preferred in cosmetic formulas due to its stability.

02Is squalane suitable for oily and acne-prone skin?

Yes, squalane is exceptionally suitable for oily and acne-prone skin. With a comedogenicity rating of 0-1, it does not clog pores or stimulate additional sebum secretion. Since it is a biomimetic lipid identical to a natural component of sebum, the skin recognizes and integrates it without an inflammatory response. Squalane may even help balance sebum production in oily skin.

03Where is the squalane in cosmetic products sourced from?

Modern cosmetic squalane is derived from plant sources - olives (Olea europaea) and sugarcane (Saccharum officinarum) - through fermentation and refining processes. This plant-based alternative is chemically identical to animal-derived squalane and is a fully sustainable and ethical choice, without the ecological concerns of traditional extraction from shark liver.

04How does squalane interact with other active ingredients?

Squalane functions as a lipid carrier that enhances the penetration of other active substances into the skin. In Collagena Professional® products, it works synergistically with peptides, resveratrol, and collagen hydrolyzate, facilitating their delivery into the deeper epidermal layers. In combination with DMS technology, squalane complements the phospholipid lamellar matrix for optimal bioavailability.

05Why does natural squalene production in the skin decline with age?

Natural squalene production in the sebaceous glands peaks during adolescence and begins to progressively decline after the age of 25-30, with the decrease potentially exceeding 50%. This process is linked to the overall slowdown in metabolic activity of the sebaceous glands. Reduced squalene leads to thinning of the surface lipid film, increased TEWL, and drier, more vulnerable skin - which is why exogenous application of squalane is particularly valuable in anti-aging care.