Prep and AHA peel
The session runs 60-75 minutes. It starts with degreasing using Biphasic Degreaser and washing with Salix Cleansing Foam. Then Balancing PrePeel for 1-2 minutes to prep pH before the acid action. The first real step is the Pro AHA 12% peel, brushed on, left for 4-6 minutes depending on density and reaction. The sensation is sting and warmth; on acne-prone skin it is even sharper in zones with active lesions, because the barrier there is weaker. When sensations get too strong, the specialist neutralises with Pro pH Control mist. The controlled peel works at once against comedones, bacteria, and post-acne pigmentation, that is exactly why 12% AHA is more effective than 8% for moderate acne.
Anti-acne actives and calming
After neutralisation we spot-apply 10% Azelaic Acid Lotion on active lesions, azelaic acid simultaneously cuts bacteria (by blocking C. acnes propionate production) and inhibits tyrosinase for post-acne marks. Next a Bioactive Gel with collagen and royal jelly for calming, this kind of skin needs the balance between active anti-acne products and calming, because peel + azelaic on a "hungry" barrier can overreact. A collagen mask sits 12 minutes and cuts redness. Many clients notice redness already easing, especially around active lesions. The whole phase is cool and comfortable. During the mask the specialist assesses whether the skin wants additional calming work or is ready for the final steps. On clients with active pustules we add a bakuchiol antibacterial serum step that works like retinol but without irritation. For zones with deep clogs we layer in a brief galvanic cleanse, the low electric current helps lift surface sebum.
Wrap-up and right after
The final steps are a light eye cream and Pro Age Reset SPF50. Right after the procedure the skin looks cleaner, with reduced redness and a visibly more even tone. A light flush is normal and clears within 2-4 hours. Do not expect a miracle in one session, real improvement comes with a course of 4-6 sessions every 14 days. In the first 2-3 days small papules may appear in zones with deeper clogs, that is drainage and usually a sign the peel is working in depth. Makeup, mineral only in the first 24 hours; from day 2, a low-oil cream. Change the pillowcase daily for the first week. Read also who it is for and the aftercare plan. The full protocol: therapy page. Compare with the gentler protocol: Deep Cleansing Therapy. All protocols: catalog. For related needs: acne page.
Active concentrations
The active profile of acne therapy with AHA 12% includes: AHA peel 12%, salicylic acid 2%, zinc, niacinamide, azelaic acid, anti-inflammatory peptides. Each concentration is chosen for a specific function, not for marketing impact. Higher concentrations do not mean a stronger result: above a certain threshold the skin starts to reject the actives or to respond with inflammation. So we work in the range where clinical studies show the best benefit-to-tolerance ratio. In-cabin actives are at higher strengths than home-use ones because in the studio a specialist watches the skin reaction minute by minute and can stop or neutralise as needed. Home concentrations are more conservative, the goal is daily use without supervision. That is also why the two regimens are not interchangeable: the professional session gives a pulse, the home care reinforces and extends the effect. If you are wondering whether you can recreate the in-cabin effect with stronger products at home, no. Not only the concentration but also the delivery method (ultrasound, iontophoresis, manual technique) determines penetration depth and the real outcome. For the complete product list we include in this therapy, see the therapy page.
Technique and equipment
For acne therapy with AHA 12% we use a combination of high-frequency current (D'Arsonval), LED blue light, vacuum desincrustation. Equipment selection is not random, each device works on a different mechanism and brings a different benefit to the actives. Ultrasound creates micro-vibrations at 1-3 MHz that push larger active molecules (peptides, exosomes) through the stratum corneum and increase penetration by about 30-40% compared with manual application. Iontophoresis uses a low electric current (1-3 mA) that temporarily opens micro-channels in the lipid matrix between cells and lets ionised actives (vitamins, niacinamide, certain peptides) reach deeper layers. Radiofrequency energy (RF) heats the deeper epidermis to 38-40°C, which triggers collagen-fibre contraction and stimulates fibroblasts to new production. Cryotherapy reduces redness, tightens pores, and reinforces active retention. In our studio the specialist decides which devices to include in your session based on skin type, goal, and tolerance. Not every device suits every skin profile, power and dwell time are always set individually. That is why two clients doing the same therapy in the same studio can get slightly different results, the settings are personalised. See the full therapy catalog in our protocols.
Frequent questions from our clients
Beyond the three FAQs above, here are a few more questions we often hear at consultations. How many days before an important event should I book? Ideally 3-5 days, the skin has time to pass through the effect peak and to settle into its best look. The day before is not ideal, a mild flush, if it shows up, can take up to 24 hours to clear completely. Can I do a session during my lunch break? Only the shorter no-downtime protocols, usually dMS Cellular Awakening and Vitamin C. Sharper therapies need at least an hour of recovery after the session. What should I do if I feel discomfort a few hours after the session? First: a cold compress cloth for 5 minutes and a panthenol cream. If the discomfort does not ease within 4-6 hours, call us. Never apply retinol, acid, or a scrub on irritated skin, they will make the reaction worse. Can I keep taking supplements (collagen, biotin, omega-3) before and after the session? Yes, they support the effect from within. The only exception is high-dose vitamin E (over 400 IU daily) if we are planning injectable procedures. Is there an age limit? Lower bound, 18 with parental consent; upper, none, provided the skin is healthy enough and you have no contraindications. We have regular clients over 70. Can I show up to the session wearing makeup? Yes, we will remove it carefully with an appropriate cleanser; you do not need to arrive bare-faced if you are coming straight from work. Can I book a session while menstruating? Yes, but in the reactive phase (the 3 days around and after ovulation and the first 2 days of the cycle) the skin can react more strongly; if you can choose, schedule outside those days for a more predictable outcome. Can I bring my own products to include in the session? Only if they are from the system we work with, or if we have already approved them at the consultation. Mixing third-party formulas with our actives can produce an unpredictable reaction. How long is the consultation before a first session? 15-25 minutes, skin assessment, goal discussion, current home routine and medical history, patch test if needed. For the full therapy catalog and details see our protocols.
Common mistakes to avoid
We often see clients arrive with expectations that do not match what acne therapy with AHA 12% actually does, and small mistakes that reduce the session result. Mistake one: expecting a once-and-done effect from a single session, no professional therapy works that way, not even the most aggressive ones. A single session holds for a specific window; afterwards the skin gradually returns to baseline; lasting change shows only with a course and maintenance. Mistake two: introducing strong retinol or an AHA peel at home in parallel during the first week after the session, the two active signals collide and the result drops instead of doubling. Your skin does not understand more is better, it processes one strong pulse at a time and stops responding to the next. Mistake three: skipping SPF50 in the first days after the session, literally every professional therapy loses 30-50% of its effect without UV protection, because peptides, vitamins, and exosomes are broken down by ultraviolet light. Even on a cloudy day the UV index is high enough to undo part of the in-cabin work. Mistake four: scheduling the session the day before an important event, most protocols peak on day 2-3, not immediately; book 3-4 days ahead if you have a specific day you want to look your best. Mistake five: swapping half of your home routine right after the session, your skin works with the products it already knows; if you want to add new ones, do it after the first 7 days and one at a time so you can tell what is working and what is not. Mistake six: skipping the consultation before a first session, without a skin diagnostic (density, reactivity, tone, active history) the specialist works blind and the protocol gets adjusted mid-way instead of from the start; this reduces first-session efficiency by 20-30%. Mistake seven: not following the recommended interval between sessions in the course, a shorter one overloads the skin with actives, a longer one breaks the cumulative effect. Mistake eight: not drinking enough water in the days around the session, peptides and hyaluronic acid only work in a well-hydrated matrix; under dehydration the session result is flatter because the actives cannot hold moisture. For the full protocols catalog and comparison see our catalog and compare with our other therapies.
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Specialized therapy with 12% AHA peel for treating oily, acne-prone and problematic skin
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