PROIn Stock
150ML
Prime Cleansing Gel Facial Cleansing Gel
Aha acids and postbiotic for deep cleansing
How to Use Retinol
A complete guide to retinoids: what they are, how to choose between retinol and bakuchiol, when to start, which ingredients to avoid, and where they fit in your evening routine.
Guide
All(87)Active Ingredients(32)Aromatherapy(3)Skin Science(19)Technologies(4)Skincare Routines(13)Professional Insights(8)Hair Science(8)Ingredients Library(50)
What Are Retinoids
Retinoids are among the most well-studied ingredients in skincare. They belong to the vitamin A family and are valued for their ability to influence the look of several signs of aging at once. Over time, with exposure to sun, pollution and everyday stress, skin gradually loses density and elasticity, while uneven tone, fine lines and wrinkles begin to appear on the surface.
This is exactly where retinoids are most useful. They are considered the gold standard when it comes to the visible signs of age - helping skin look smoother, more even and firmer. In this guide we explain, simply and clearly, how to use them correctly and safely.
How Retinoids Work
Retinoids work on two levels. On one hand, they support the skin's natural surface renewal - the process by which skin sheds older cells and replaces them with fresh ones. On the other, they support the look of the skin where age shows most - where, over time, skin appears less firm and smooth. Collagen is the protein responsible for that firmness, and its levels naturally decline over the years.
Retinoids are among the most thoroughly studied ingredients in dermatological cosmetics, and with regular, correct use skin typically looks more even in texture, with less pronounced fine lines. If you want to understand the scientific mechanism in detail, see our separate article on retinol.
Here is a ready step-by-step evening retinol routine with Collagena Professional products.
Product routine
Step 1CleanseA clean base before retinol
Step 2Retinol (PM)Retinol serum for overnight renewal
Step 3Night creamNourishes and buffers the retinol
Step 4Protect (AM)SPF 50 is a must when using retinol
Retinol or Bakuchiol: Which Form to Choose
"Retinoid" is an umbrella term for a whole group of vitamin A derivatives. In our catalog you will find two main approaches - classic retinol and its plant-based alternative, bakuchiol. The choice depends entirely on your experience and how sensitive your skin is.
Retinol - the proven classic
Retinol is the most widely used and best-studied form of vitamin A in cosmetics. Its action is more pronounced, so it requires gradual adjustment and a little more care when combining. It suits people with more tolerant skin and those who want a more pronounced visible anti-aging effect. In our catalog this is the Retinol Night Advance Serum.
Bakuchiol - the gentle plant-based alternative
Bakuchiol is a plant-based ingredient with an action similar to retinol, but significantly gentler. It is well tolerated by sensitive skin, easy to combine with other actives, and a great starting point for beginners. You will find it in the Holistic Spot night serum and the Night Show night cream. Read more about the ingredient in our article on bakuchiol.
In short, the difference is the balance between strength and gentleness. Retinol delivers a more pronounced visible result but calls for more patience and care at the start. Bakuchiol is gentler, easier to combine and rarely causes discomfort, which makes it the logical starting point for sensitive skin and for anyone reaching for vitamin A for the first time. The same rule applies to both: the effect comes from consistency, not quantity, and their place is in the evening.
If you are unsure which is right for you, start with the gentler option and judge how your skin responds. You can browse and compare all of our night serums and face creams in our home-care catalog.
When to Start
The right time depends on your skin's individual needs and your age. Retinoids generally come into play when the first signs of aging begin to appear - fine lines, uneven texture or uneven tone, most often in your late twenties or early thirties.
Start with a lower concentration and increase it gradually to give your skin time to adapt. Before introducing a new product, patch test on a small area. At the beginning, apply the retinoid sparingly - twice a week - and increase frequency as your skin adjusts. A mild adjustment period with tightness or light flaking in the first weeks is normal. And essential: use sun protection during the day, because retinoids increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun.
A note: if you are pregnant or breastfeeding, consult your doctor before adding a retinoid to your routine. During this period, bakuchiol is often the more sensible choice.
Which Ingredients to Be Careful With
Some combinations increase the likelihood of irritation and sensitivity. With retinol, keep the following ingredients in mind:
- Acids (AHA/BHA): both retinol and acids support skin renewal, so together they can overload it. Use them on alternating evenings.
- Direct vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid): better applied in the morning, with retinol in the evening, to avoid irritation and mutual neutralization.
- Other retinoids: do not combine several retinoids at once - this only increases the risk of over-exfoliation.
Retinol, on the other hand, pairs beautifully with niacinamide and hyaluronic acid, which calm and hydrate the skin. If you prefer the easiest possible layering, bakuchiol is more forgiving and has almost no restrictions.
Where Retinol Fits in Your Routine
Retinoids are always applied in the evening, as part of the treatment step. The order is simple:
- Cleanse your skin.
- Apply water-based serums (for example with hyaluronic acid) and let them absorb.
- Apply the retinoid (retinol or bakuchiol).
- Finish with a nourishing cream or oil.
- In the morning, always apply sun protection.
Building a Routine by Experience Level
The choice of retinoid depends on whether you are a beginner or already experienced, as well as on your specific goal:
- Beginners and sensitive skin: start with bakuchiol - Holistic Spot or Night Show - two to three times a week until your skin adjusts.
- First signs of aging: bakuchiol or a gentle retinol, paired with a hydrating night cream for better tolerance.
- Advanced signs and experienced users: Retinol Night Advance Serum, introduced gradually to more frequent use and combined with a suitable anti-aging cream such as Age Control.
Whichever level you choose, move at your skin's pace, not the calendar's. It is better to progress slowly and without interruptions than to rush and have to start over. You will find the full face-care range in our home-care catalog, and if you are a salon or professional, in our professional catalog.
When to Expect Results
Retinoids are not an overnight product. Skin has its own renewal rhythm, so the effect builds gradually. In most cases the first visible changes in smoothness and radiance appear after about four to six weeks of regular use, while a more pronounced result in the look of fine lines and tone usually comes after two to three months.
During the first weeks your skin may go through a short adjustment period - mild tightness, redness or light flaking. This usually settles as your skin gets used to the product. If the discomfort is strong, reduce frequency and lean on your moisturizer instead of stopping completely. Consistency over several months delivers far more than intensive use over a few days.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Most problems with retinoids come not from the ingredient itself, but from how it is used. Here are the most common mistakes:
- Too much, too soon. More product or more frequent use does not mean faster results - it means a higher risk of irritation. Start sparingly and build up slowly.
- Skipping sun protection. Without daytime SPF you put at risk everything you build in the evening. Daytime protection is an essential step.
- Mixing too many active ingredients at once. Give your skin time to get used to one active before adding the next.
- Giving up too early. The adjustment period is normal and temporary; stopping in the first weeks sends your progress back to the start.
- Applying to damp skin. Wait for your face to dry after cleansing - this lowers the likelihood of irritation.
Start Calmly and Consistently
Knowing how retinoids work, when to use them and what to avoid is the key to good results with minimal discomfort. Introduce them gradually, be consistent and listen to your skin. If you are unsure where to begin, consult a specialist who can guide you according to your needs.
The Adjustment Period
For the first few weeks skin often looks worse before it looks better: light flaking around the nose and chin, a tight feeling, sometimes more blemishes than usual. This is expected and normally settles within six to eight weeks.
How to make it easier
The sandwich method works well: a layer of plain moisturiser, then the retinol, then moisturiser again. The active is delivered more slowly and skin takes the process better. Reduce frequency rather than stopping altogether, and do not add anything new during this stretch.
When to stop
If you get strong redness, burning that does not pass, or weeping patches, stop and go back to simple care. That is no longer adjustment. Retinol is not a compulsory ingredient, and there are gentler alternatives if your skin firmly refuses it.
Want to take your routine further? Explore more articles in our Skincare Routines section, or see detailed active-ingredient profiles in our Ingredients Library.
This article is for informational purposes and does not replace professional advice. If in doubt - especially with sensitive skin, during pregnancy or breastfeeding - consult a dermatologist or doctor.
01At what age should I start using retinol?
There is no strict rule, but most people start in their late twenties or early thirties, when the first fine lines and uneven texture appear. If your skin is sensitive or you are younger, bakuchiol is a gentler starting point. The key is to introduce the ingredient gradually.
02Is it normal for skin to flake at the beginning?
Yes, a mild adjustment period with tightness, redness or fine flaking during the first few weeks is normal as the skin adapts. To reduce it, start twice a week, apply a thin layer and never skip your moisturizer. If the discomfort is strong, lower the frequency.
03Can I use retinol in the summer?
Yes, as long as you apply broad-spectrum sunscreen of SPF 30 or higher every day. Retinoids increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun, so apply them only in the evening and never skip sunscreen - even on cloudy days.
04Retinol or bakuchiol - which should I choose?
Choose retinol if your skin tolerates actives well and you want a more pronounced anti-aging effect. Choose bakuchiol if your skin is sensitive, you are just starting out, or you are pregnant or breastfeeding (after consulting your doctor). Bakuchiol is also easier to combine with other ingredients.
05What should I not combine retinol with?
Avoid using it at the same time as AHA/BHA acids, direct vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and other retinoids, as this increases the risk of irritation. If you want to use them all, spread them across different evenings. Retinol pairs very well with niacinamide and hyaluronic acid.
06How long does it take to see results?
Retinoids work gradually. The first visible changes in smoothness and radiance usually appear after about four to six weeks of regular use, while a more pronounced result in the look of fine lines and tone comes after two to three months. The key is consistency, not quantity.
07How often should I use retinol?
At the start, apply the retinoid twice a week in the evening and increase the frequency gradually as your skin adjusts. Many people work up to every other evening or every evening, but this depends entirely on how well your skin tolerates it. Bakuchiol is usually well tolerated every evening from the start.
From our catalog
Recommended Products
Discover our products containing the active ingredients mentioned in this article
