Chronological and Photoaging: Pathophysiology
Chronological and photoaging is characterized by reduced synthesis of type I and III collagen, degradation of elastic fibers and impaired barrier function. With age, fibroblasts reduce their production of collagen and elastin, while the activity of matrix metalloproteinases (MMP) increases, leading to accelerated degradation of the extracellular matrix.
Photoaging, caused by chronic exposure to UV radiation, leads to accumulation of damaged DNA, oxidative stress and activation of pro-inflammatory signaling pathways. This results in faster degradation of collagen and elastin compared to chronological aging.
Peptides: Stimulation of Neocollagenogenesis
Our anti-aging formulas integrate peptides such as argireline and matrixyl, which modulate mimetic activity and stimulate neocollagenogenesis. Argireline (acetyl hexapeptide-8) inhibits the release of catecholamines from nerve endings, which reduces mimetic activity and the appearance of dynamic wrinkles.
Matrixyl (palmitoyl pentapeptide-4) stimulates collagen synthesis by activating fibroblasts and increasing production of type I, III and IV collagen. It also modulates production of fibronectin, which plays a key role in cell adhesion and tissue repair.
Hyaluronic Acid: Multi-layered Hydration
Hyaluronic acid with different molecular weights provides multi-layered hydration: the high-molecular form creates a protective film on the surface, while the low-molecular penetrates the dermis, stimulating fibroblasts. Hyaluronic acid can bind up to 1000 times its volume of water, which ensures intensive hydration and improvement of skin volume.
Retinol: Cell Proliferation and Collagen Synthesis
Retinol and its derivatives activate retinoic acid receptors (RAR) and retinoid X receptors (RXR), which promotes cell proliferation and collagen synthesis. Retinol also modulates expression of genes related to collagen synthesis and reduces MMP activity, leading to slower collagen degradation.
Application in Cosmetic Formulas
In Collagena Professional® products, peptides, hyaluronic acid and retinol are combined in synergistic formulas that act at different levels of skin structure. This combination ensures not only stimulation of collagen synthesis, but also improvement of hydration, reduction of wrinkle appearance and restoration of skin elasticity.
