01 / Deep Cleansing Therapy for Acne-Prone and Problematic Skin
Prep and comedone softening
The session runs 60-75 minutes. It starts with degreasing using Biphasic Degreaser and a cleanse with Salix Cleansing Foam, the foam carries salicylic acid that works inside the pores because it is oil-soluble and reaches into sebum. Step three softens the comedones with the Comedone Softening gel; brushed on, left for 5-8 minutes. The sensation is light warmth and tightness, normal. After that, with light massage and a steam towel (when available) we open the pores. Here the specialist decides on manual extraction, some clients get only chemical cleaning, others get manual extraction in the most clogged zones. Manual extraction uses a cotton wrap and precise technique, never pressure that could leave scars.
Active acids and calming
10% Azelaic Acid Lotion is applied precisely on active lesions, azelaic acid works at once against bacteria (Propionibacterium acnes), inflammation, and post-acne pigmentation. It hits three different problems at once, that is why it is a favourite in dermatology for acne-prone skin. Sensation: a light sting that clears in a minute. Then comes a Bioactive gel with collagen and royal jelly for calming and nourishment, acne skin is often inflamed and this layer matters for keeping the barrier intact during the anti-acne work. The collagen mask sits 12 minutes and helps reduce post-active redness. Many clients already see the redness easing here, especially around active lesions. For tougher cases we add a spot LED light therapy step, blue light has an additional antibacterial effect.
Wrap-up and right after
The final steps are eye cream and Pro Age Reset SPF50. SPF50 is non-negotiable, azelaic acid makes the skin more UV-sensitive for 24-48 hours. Right after the procedure the skin looks cleaner, brighter, and visibly more even. A light flush in extraction zones is normal and clears within 6-12 hours. If you notice small papules in the next 2-3 days in extraction zones, do not panic, that is usually drainage from deep clogs that have just opened up. Makeup, mineral powder only on day one, since heavy bases clog pores. From day 2, light oil-free hydrating cream. Extra micro-inflammations may look "worse" before they look "better", that phase clears in 5-7 days. Read also who it is for and the aftercare plan. The full protocol: therapy page. For a sharper approach to severe acne, see the 12% AHA Acne Therapy. Related: acne page.
Active concentrations
The active profile of deep cleansing therapy includes: salicylic acid 2%, zinc PCA, niacinamide, enzymatic exfoliation, anti-inflammatory peptides. Each concentration is chosen for a specific function, not for marketing impact. Higher concentrations do not mean a stronger result: above a certain threshold the skin starts to reject the actives or to respond with inflammation. So we work in the range where clinical studies show the best benefit-to-tolerance ratio. In-salon actives are at higher strengths than home-use ones because in the studio a specialist watches the skin reaction minute by minute and can stop or neutralise as needed. Home concentrations are more conservative, the goal is daily use without supervision. That is also why the two regimens are not interchangeable: the professional session gives a pulse, the home care reinforces and extends the effect. If you are wondering whether you can recreate the in-salon effect with stronger products at home, no. Not only the concentration but also the delivery method (ultrasound, iontophoresis, manual technique) determines penetration depth and the real outcome. For the complete product list we include in this therapy, see the therapy page.
Technique and equipment
For deep cleansing therapy we use a combination of vacuum desincrustation, high-frequency current (D'Arsonval), ultrasound. Equipment selection is not random, each device works on a different mechanism and brings a different benefit to the actives. Ultrasound creates micro-vibrations at 1-3 MHz that push larger active molecules (peptides, exosomes) through the stratum corneum and increase penetration by about 30-40% compared with manual application. Iontophoresis uses a low electric current (1-3 mA) that temporarily opens micro-channels in the lipid matrix between cells and lets ionised actives (vitamins, niacinamide, certain peptides) reach deeper layers. Radiofrequency energy (RF) heats the deeper epidermis to 38-40°C, which triggers collagen-fibre contraction and stimulates fibroblasts to new production. Cryotherapy reduces redness, tightens pores, and reinforces active retention. In our studio the specialist decides which devices to include in your session based on skin type, goal, and tolerance. Not every device suits every skin profile, power and dwell time are always set individually. That is why two clients doing the same therapy in the same studio can get slightly different results, the settings are personalised. See the full therapy catalog in our protocols.
Common mistakes to avoid
We often see clients arrive with expectations that do not match what deep cleansing therapy actually does, and small mistakes that reduce the session result. Mistake one: expecting a once-and-done effect from a single session, no professional therapy works that way, not even the most aggressive ones. A single session holds for a specific window; afterwards the skin gradually returns to baseline; lasting change shows only with a course and maintenance. Mistake two: introducing strong retinol or an AHA peel at home in parallel during the first week after the session, the two active signals collide and the result drops instead of doubling. Your skin does not understand more is better, it processes one strong pulse at a time and stops responding to the next. Mistake three: skipping SPF50 in the first days after the session, literally every professional therapy loses 30-50% of its effect without UV protection, because peptides, vitamins, and exosomes are broken down by ultraviolet light. Even on a cloudy day the UV index is high enough to undo part of the in-salon work. Mistake four: scheduling the session the day before an important event, most protocols peak on day 2-3, not immediately; book 3-4 days ahead if you have a specific day you want to look your best. Mistake five: swapping half of your home routine right after the session, your skin works with the products it already knows; if you want to add new ones, do it after the first 7 days and one at a time so you can tell what is working and what is not. Mistake six: skipping the consultation before a first session, without a skin diagnostic (density, reactivity, tone, active history) the specialist works blind and the protocol gets adjusted mid-way instead of from the start; this reduces first-session efficiency by 20-30%. Mistake seven: not following the recommended interval between sessions in the course, a shorter one overloads the skin with actives, a longer one breaks the cumulative effect. Mistake eight: not drinking enough water in the days around the session, peptides and hyaluronic acid only work in a well-hydrated matrix; under dehydration the session result is flatter because the actives cannot hold moisture. For the full protocols catalog and comparison see our catalog and compare with our other therapies.
What we do not promise
Honestly, deep cleansing therapy will not do everything. It will not remove deep structural wrinkles, those need a dermal filler or a surgical approach. It will not clear persistent dermal pigmentation (chloasma, melasma), those need specialised medical care and often a combination of mesotherapy and medication. It will not erase acne scars, for those we work in a course with collagen-stimulating protocols over months. It will not prevent future aging or stop time, it works with the current state of your skin, not your genetics. It will not deliver a result that holds for 6 months from a single session, without maintenance, the effect fades gradually. What it does is real and measurable: improved texture, plumper and brighter skin, visibly evened tone, softened fine lines, and a younger-looking contour for a defined period. We find it more important to describe exactly what you will get than to over-promise and disappoint. If you have goals that do not fit this therapy, we will tell you at the consultation and direct you to the protocol with the best chance of delivering what you are looking for. A comparative overview of all our protocols is in the catalog.
Frequently asked questions
Does manual extraction hurt?
Mild discomfort, yes. Never pain. If the specialist meets resistance, they stop, we do not force extraction.
How often can I book it?
Every 2-4 weeks depending on acne severity. More often adds no benefit and can irritate.
Is it suitable for active papules?
Yes, precisely. We do not do mechanical extraction over active papules and pustules, only enzyme work.
Related products
Comprehensive therapy for deep cleansing and regeneration of acne-prone and problematic skin
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