Mechanism of Keratolysis
Chemical exfoliation through alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHA) accelerates the natural process of stratum corneum desquamation. Glycolic acid, with small molecular size, penetrates deeply and breaks hydrogen bonds between corneocytes through hydrolysis of desmosomes. This facilitates the removal of dead cells and improves penetration of other active ingredients.
Lactic acid provides gentler exfoliation, suitable for sensitive skin, while glycolic acid is more aggressive and effective for thicker skin. Salicylic acid (BHA) penetrates deep into pores thanks to its lipophilic properties and dissolves sebum blocks.
Vitamin C: Antioxidant Protection and Collagen Stimulation
Vitamin C in stable form (L-ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate) provides antioxidant protection, neutralizing free radicals generated by UV radiation and pollution. It also stimulates collagen synthesis by activating prolyl hydroxylase, a key enzyme in collagen biosynthesis.
Vitamin C also inhibits tyrosinase and reduces melanin production, which further improves skin tone after exfoliation. Stable forms of vitamin C ensure longer-lasting efficacy compared to pure L-ascorbic acid, which oxidizes quickly.
Application in Cosmetic Formulas
In Collagena Professional® products, AHA, BHA and vitamin C are combined in controlled concentrations that ensure effective exfoliation without excessive aggressiveness. This combination accelerates cell turnover, improves skin texture and provides antioxidant protection, leading to healthier and more radiant skin.
