What It Is
Bakuchiol is a compound extracted from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia, used for centuries in Ayurvedic and Chinese traditions. It arrived in skincare relatively recently, as an option for people who do not tolerate retinoids.
Why “natural retinol” is misleading
Retinol is a form of vitamin A. Bakuchiol is a meroterpene and belongs to a different family entirely. Research indicates the two influence similar processes in skin but by different routes. Which makes “alternative” a more accurate word than “natural version”.
What the Research Shows
The most cited comparison was published in 2019 in the British Journal of Dermatology by Dhaliwal and colleagues. In it, 44 participants used either 0.5% bakuchiol twice daily or 0.5% retinol once daily over 12 weeks.
What it concluded
Both groups showed comparable improvement in pigmentation and wrinkles, but the retinol group reported significantly more flaking and irritation. The study is small and has not been widely replicated, so its conclusions are promising rather than settled.
The Main Advantage: Tolerability
Unlike retinol, bakuchiol needs no adjustment period, does not cause the typical initial flaking, and can be used morning and evening. It does not make skin more sun-sensitive, which is the other significant limitation with retinoids.
Who It Suits
Sensitive skin, people who have tried retinol and could not tolerate it, and anyone wanting a calmer start in anti-ageing care. A full regime is in our anti-ageing routine.
During pregnancy
Bakuchiol is often suggested as a pregnancy-safe swap for retinol, but safety data for that period is limited. The decision about any active during pregnancy belongs with your doctor, not with an article.
How to Use It
The Limitations Worth Knowing
The research on bakuchiol is considerably thinner than on retinoids, which have been studied for decades. That does not mean the ingredient does not work, only that the evidence base is smaller and the conclusions more cautious.
Concentrations in products also vary widely and are rarely stated. A product with bakuchiol last on the ingredient list will not deliver what the cited studies showed, where the concentration was clearly defined.
Bakuchiol and Retinol Together
The two can be used in one routine and that is not redundant. A common approach is retinol on the evenings when skin tolerates it and bakuchiol on the others, rather than leaving the routine empty.
If your skin tolerates retinol well, there is no reason to swap. Bakuchiol solves a specific problem; it is not automatically the better ingredient.
In a serum, once or twice a day, on clean skin. It combines well with nearly everything, acids and vitamin C included, which is an advantage over retinol. Judge the result after roughly twelve weeks of consistent use.
